Drafting and Cutting Process of Dartless Saree Blouse

Drafting Process of Dartless Saree Blouse
R.S. Balakumar
Associate Professor
Dept of Fashion Design & Arts
Hindustan University, Chennai, India
Email: rsbalakumar1953@gmail.com


This is a fashionable saree blouse. Women are interested to wear this blouse. In this front portion darts are eliminated and by means of curves and shape, front bust part is having the good look and fit.Bias cut front will give more comfort to the wearer. Wedding collection, celebrity collection, dartless blouses are very famous.


Suitable fabrics:
Suitable fabrics are cotton, voile, crepe, synthetic, silk.

Material requirement is 1 metre cloth width is 36”.

Measurements: Back length = 14”. Shoulder width = 131/2”. Bust = 34”. Waist = 28”. Sleeve length = 8”. Sleeve girth = 101/2”.

 
Drafting details of dartless blouse
Fig: Drafting details of dartless blouse
Drafting Details of Dartless Blouse (Back-part)

1-2 = Back length + 1/2”.
2-3 = 11/2”. hem.
1-4 = Bust/6 + 1/2”.
1-5 = 1/2 Shoulder width + 1/2”.
6-5 = Draw a straight line.
7-4 = 1/4th Bust + 1/2’.
8-5 = Front shoulder 21/2” +1=3 ½.
9-5 = 1/2” Shoulder Slope.
10-8 = Draw the straight line.
11-10 = 1 ½” shoulders slope.
12-6 = 1 ¼” at 45degree.
13-2 = Waist/4+1”.
14-15 = 1/2”. 16 is the middle of 2 to 13.
17-16 = 4 ½”. dart length.
18-19 = 3/4” dart intake.

Allow side inlays extra 1 ½”as per draft.


Drafting Details of Front Part-A

1-2 = 1/4th Bust measure.
1-3 = 1/6th Bust + 1/4”
1-4 = Shoulder/2 + 1/2’.
5-4 = Draw a straight line.
6-3 = 1/4th Bust + 1/2”.
7-2 = Same as 6 to 3.
8-4 = Front shoulder = 2 ½ + 1 for seam.
9-8 = Draw a straight line.
10-9 = 1 ¼ at 45 degree.
11-4 = 1/2” as per draft.
12-5 = 3/4”.
13-14 = 1/2” inward as per draft.
15-16 = 1 ½ allow the side inlays.


Drafting Details of Front Part-B

17-18 = 1/4th bust + 1 ½”.
19-17 = Bust/12 + 1/2”.
20-17 = 3/4”.
21-20 = 1/2”.
22-18 = 1 i/4”.
23-17 = 3 ¼” (bust/12 + 1/2)
24-23 = Bust/12 less ½”.
Shape 19 to 20 as per draft and allow side inlays 1 ½”.


Drafting Details of Front Part-C

25-26 = 1/4th waist = 1/2”.
27-25 = 1/2”.
28-27 = 3/4”.
27-25 = 1/2”.
28-25 = 3/4”.
29-25 = 3 ½”.
30-291/4th waist measure.
31-29 = 1”.
32-30 = 1”.
31-33 = 1/2”.

Allow side inlays 1 ½” as per draft.

Sleeve-cut-2.

1-2 = Sleeve length + 1/2”.
2-3 bottom hem 1 ½”.
1-4 = Bust/8 less ½”.
5-2 = 1/2 Sleeve girth.
6-7 = 3/4”.
8-4=5 to 2 measure + 1”.

9 is mid of 9 to 8.

11-12 = 3/4” down ward as per draft.

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Mazharul Islam Kiron is a textile consultant and researcher on online business promotion. He is working with one European textile machinery company as a country agent. He is also a contributor of Wikipedia.


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